How Do Pest Control Companies Get Rid of Termites in Boca Raton, Florida?

How do pest control companies get rid of termites? Professionals use three proven methods: liquid soil termiticides, bait systems, and whole-structure or localized treatments for drywood termites. Each method targets how and where termites live, from underground subterranean colonies to hidden drywood infestations inside your walls.

In this guide, we’ll break down how each treatment works, when it’s used, and what homeowners can expect from professional termite control.

Key Takeaways

• Match the method to the species and spread. Subterranean termites respond to liquids and bait; drywood termites call for fumigation or precise spot work.

  
  

• Inspection drives results. A pro termite inspection finds entry points, maps termite activity, and sets a label-correct plan you can document.

  
  

• Protection is ongoing. Fix moisture, remove wood-to-soil contact, maintain bait stations if used, and schedule regular termite inspections to prevent new infestations.

  
  

Why Species and Spread Dictate the Plan

Termites aren’t the same, so a successful termite treatment depends on the species and how far the termite infestation has spread through the structure.

Subterranean termites live in underground nests and travel through mud tubes to reach a home’s foundation and framing. They’re social insects that need soil moisture, so a termite inspection focuses on the exterior, slab edges, plumbing penetrations, and any wood-to-soil contact.

When termite colonies are active, pros typically use barrier treatments with non-repellent termiticides, bait stations/bait systems to eliminate the colony, or both. Regular inspections help prevent termite infestations from rebounding if conditions change.

Drywood termites live inside infested wood. They can be termites found in rafters, trim, or furniture where termites feed on cellulose material. Localized termite activity can be treated with precise injections or foams; widespread activity calls for whole-structure fumigation. Follow-up termite services verify results and keep new termite problems from starting.

Why identification matters

• Treatment options vary based on biology. Subterranean species respond well to soil-applied chemical treatments (creating a barrier) and bait; drywood species require treated wood, localized spot work, or fumigation.

  
  

• Extent drives method. A small, accessible pocket may only need spot treatment methods, while multiple areas across the house require a bigger plan to protect the property long term.

  
  

• Site factors count. Wood debris, moisture, landscaping against the foundation, and other factors can undermine results if left unchecked—addressing food sources and access points is part of a proactive approach.

  
  

What a pro does next

After inspection, an exterminator determines species, maps extent, and recommends the safest, label-driven pesticide plan. That might include barrier + bait, targeted wood treatments, or fumigation for significant damage hidden inside the building.

The goal is to eliminate existing termites, protect the home’s foundation and structure, and set up long-term protection that’s easy to maintain.

The Professional Inspection (What Techs Look For)

A professional termite inspection is where every smart treatment plan starts. Termites are relentless pests that cause billions of dollars in structural damage each year, often before homeowners notice any signs. That’s why licensed pest control technicians inspect every part of a building for both activity and risk factors.

During an inspection, pros look for visible signs such as discarded wings from swarmers, shelter tubes along foundations, soft or blistered wood, and other subtle termite damage that can hide behind paint or drywall. They also check construction details—slab cracks, wood-to-soil contact, or areas with poor drainage—that can invite new termite activity.

Moisture readings are a key part of prevention. Termites thrive in damp environments, so inspectors often use moisture meters, movement detectors, and flashlights to locate hidden problem spots. Every finding is recorded according to the product label and state regulations to ensure any treatment methods used later meet safety and efficacy standards.

In the end, the inspection is about mapping how termites enter, feed, and spread in your property, then using that knowledge to plan the right protection for it.

Subterranean Termites: Two Proven Paths

1) Liquid soil termiticides (non-repellent barriers)

• How it works: We trench and rod along the foundation and key slab joints to apply a non-repellent termiticide. Foragers pass through the treated soil, pick it up, and transfer it within the colony.

  
  

• Why it’s effective: Creates a continuous treated zone that blocks new entry and delivers fast knockdown for active pressure.

  
  

• Best fit: Clear mud tubes on foundations, slab-on-grade homes, additions with multiple cold joints, or when you need immediate structural protection.

  
  

2) Baiting systems

• How it works: Discrete stations are placed around the structure. Termites feed on the bait (Sentricon) and share it, leading to colony suppression or elimination.

  
  

• Why it’s effective: Targets the source without broad soil application, and provides ongoing monitoring.

  
  

• Best fit: Sites where trenching is difficult (hardscape, roots, tight setbacks), properties with recurring neighborhood pressure, or homeowners who want continuous interception and data on termite activity.

  
  

When to choose which

Go liquid first if active entry points or heavy pressure are confirmed and you need rapid protection for framing and foundation.

Go bait-first if access is limited, landscaping is a concern, or you want long-term monitoring that can intercept future colonies.

Combine both in high-pressure areas: a liquid perimeter to protect the structure now, plus bait stations to reduce surrounding colony pressure and alert you to new activity over time.

Drywood Termites: Whole-Structure vs. Localized

Drywood termites live entirely inside wood and don’t rely on soil. Because they can tunnel through framing, trim, or furniture, the right approach depends on how widespread the infestation is and how accessible the colonies are.

1) Whole-structure fumigation

• How it works: The home is sealed and treated with sulfuryl fluoride gas that penetrates every void, reaching hidden colonies deep within walls, attics, and subfloors.

  
  

• Why it’s used: It’s the most reliable reset for extensive or multiple drywood infestations where colonies are scattered throughout the structure.

  
  

• What to expect: A licensed fumigation team handles all prep, aeration, and clearance testing before you return home.

  
  

2) Localized injections, foams, or dusts

• How it works: Termiticides or foaming products are injected directly into known galleries within fascia boards, baseboards, or furniture.

  
  

• Best fit: Isolated infestations found early and accessible without full-structure tenting.

  
  

• Follow-up: Technicians re-inspect treated areas to verify quiet activity and ensure no new pockets form elsewhere.

  
  

Each method serves a specific role (fumigation for complete elimination, heat for chemical-free control, and localized spot work for contained problems) that helps professionals match treatment to infestation size, building design, and homeowner preference.

Timelines: How Long Treatments Take to Work

• Liquid soil termiticides (barriers): Results begin as soon as foragers contact treated soil—often within days to a few weeks. Follow-up checks confirm mud tubes are inactive and entry points are blocked.

  
  

• Bait systems: Stations need to be discovered, fed on, and shared. Expect a longer runway, typically several weeks to a few months, for clear reduction, with continued suppression as monitoring continues.

  
  

• Whole-structure fumigation (drywood): Once aerated and cleared, existing drywood colonies are controlled rapidly. Post-fumigation inspections focus on sealing entry points and preventing reintroduction.

  
  

• What influences timing: Species, colony size, soil and moisture conditions, construction details, and how quickly conducive conditions (leaks, wood-to-soil contact, landscaping against the foundation) are corrected.

  
  

Prevention & Maintenance After Treatment

Timelines are only half the story; staying protected comes down to simple habits and scheduled check-ins.

Moisture control

• Repair leaks fast and improve ventilation in baths, kitchens, and attics.

  
  

• Keep gutters clear and downspouts directing water away from the foundation.

  
  

• Grade the soil so water flows away from the house.

  
  

Remove easy access

• Eliminate wood-to-soil contact: lift fence posts, deck steps, and siding off the ground.

  
  

• Pull mulch back 6–12 inches from the foundation; use stone in high-risk zones.

  
  

• Store firewood and lumber at least 20 feet from the structure.

  
  

Landscape with intention

• Trim shrubs so walls can dry out and inspectors can see slab edges.

  
  

• Adjust irrigation to avoid hitting stucco or wood.

  
  

Seal and maintain

• Screen attic and crawl vents; seal gaps at utility lines and expansion joints.

  
  

• Replace damaged weatherstripping and repair cracked stucco or caulk lines.

  
  

Protect the structure

• Use borate or other approved wood treatments on new additions or repairs per product label.

  
  

• Choose treated wood for ground-contact projects.

  
  

Keep an eye on conditions

• If you have bait stations, don’t bury or block them; keep a 12–18 inch clearance.

  
  

• After storms, new hardscape, or plumbing work, schedule a quick recheck to confirm protection is intact.

  
  

Stay on a schedule

• Book regular termite inspections annually, or sooner if you notice swarmers, mud tubes, or fresh pellets.

  
  

• Keep your service records; documentation supports resale, insurance, and future treatments.

  
  

A consistent routine like this prevents termite infestations from gaining traction and preserves long-term protection without drama or guesswork.

Schedule a Professional Termite Inspection

If you’re seeing wings, mud tubes, pellets, or soft wood, share a photo or book an inspection. We’ll give you findings, upfront pricing, and a right-sized plan—bait stations, liquid soil treatment, localized drywood work, or fumigation only if it’s truly needed.

Contact us for a free quote, and we’ll map the next step and a time that fits your schedule.

Conclusion

Termites aren’t guesswork. The right plan starts with species ID and a thorough inspection, then applies the method that fits: liquid soil termiticides for fast structural protection, bait systems for colony elimination and monitoring, and whole-structure or localized drywood treatments when activity is inside the wood.

Pair that with moisture fixes and regular inspections, and you keep pressure down and your home protected for the long term.

Frequently Asked Questions

What are the signs of a termite infestation (including mud tubes)?

Look for pencil-thin mud tubes on foundation or slab edges, discarded wings after a swarm, blistered paint, hollow-sounding wood, or tiny pellets (drywood). If you see any, book a professional inspection fast.

Which termite control and termite treatments actually work?

Pros rely on three proven tools: liquid soil termiticides (barrier treatments) for fast protection, bait stations for colony elimination and monitoring, and whole-structure or localized treatments for drywood pockets.

Are chemical treatments and barrier treatments safe for my family and pets?

When applied by licensed pros according to the product label, modern non-repellent termiticides bind in soil and are used with strict re-entry guidelines. We’ll explain prep, timing, and any temporary access limits before work begins.

Do bait stations work for all the different types of termites?

Bait stations target subterranean termites that forage through soil; they take time because workers must find and share the bait. Drywood termites live inside wood, so they’re handled with localized injections/foams or whole-structure fumigation instead.