The Best Guide on How to Control Termites in the House in Boca Raton, Florida

South Florida gives termites everything they need: warm temperatures, steady humidity, and plenty of access points around slab edges, soffits, and utility lines. It's why effective termite control isn't a quick spray and goodbye. 

Real protection blends three parts that work together: prevention to reduce pressure, elimination to remove active colonies, and monitoring to make sure new activity doesn't take hold.

If you're asking how to control termites in house settings that face year-round pressure, this guide lays out that full system so you know what to do first, what to skip, and when to bring in a pro.

Key Takeaways

• Effective termite control = prevention + elimination + monitoring—not a one-time spray.

  
  

• Match the method to the termite species: liquid barrier/baiting for subterranean termites; localized or tenting for drywood.

  
  

• Start with a termite inspection, fix moisture and wood-to-soil contact, then stick to a simple monitoring schedule to prevent termite damage.

  
  

Florida's Termite Calendar: When Pressure Spikes

South Florida's swarm season runs long, and it isn't the same for every termite species. Native subterranean termites often swarm by day from late winter into spring. Asian and Formosan subterranean termites push big dusk and evening flights through spring, with peaks in late spring.

Drywood termites tend to swarm later, from late spring into summer, often around afternoon or evening light sources. Swarms usually flare after warm rains and last for minutes, not hours.

What to do the week after a neighborhood swarm

• Document signs, don't disturb them. Photograph mud tubes, fallen hind wings, exit holes, or frass. Avoid breaking tubes or opening walls; those clues help determine the termite species and pinpoint active colonies during a termite inspection.

  
  

• Collect a few samples. Save several swarmers or wings in a small, sealed bag or vial for identification. Faster ID means faster, better-targeted termite treatment.

  
  

• Reduce the light lure. During evening swarm windows, turn off porch lights when safe, close windows and doors, and check attic and soffit screens—light draws in dusk- and night-swarming species.

  
  

• Vacuum, then seal and toss the bag. Vacuuming removes indoor swarmers quickly; discard the bag outside. Skip over-the-counter spray insecticides on swarmers—they don't solve the underlying infestation.

  
  

• Schedule a professional inspection. A pest control company should examine access points around the foundation, walls, roofline, and utility penetrations, confirm termite species, and outline termite control options that fit your structure and soil.

  
  

Use the timing to guide your next steps: daytime flights suggest native subterranean pressure; dusk and night flights point to Asian or Formosan activity; later-season flights raise the odds of drywood termites. With that context, protect exposed wood, fix moisture issues, and move from inspection to targeted treatments and ongoing monitoring.

House-by-House Checklist: Where Termites Start

Every home has entry points that termites can exploit, and most people overlook them because they don't appear damaged until the infestation is well established. Instead of checking room by room, inspect by system—the parts of the house that connect soil, wood, and moisture.

Foundation and slab penetrations

Start at ground level. Look for cracks in the cement, gaps around plumbing lines, and spots where patios or additions meet the original foundation. These seams are classic access points for subterranean termites that build hidden mud tubes from soil to wood.

Remove loose wood debris and old form boards left from construction, and check for leaks that keep the soil moist. Avoid disturbing suspected tubes or infested areas; a professional termite inspection can confirm activity without spreading it.

Roof, soffit, and fascia

Roof leaks and damp fascia boards create an ideal entryway for drywood termites. Examine the roofline, gutters, and soffit vents for sagging, staining, or frass—tiny wood pellets that signal active feeding. Clean out gutters so water flows away from the structure and doesn't soak the fascia.

If the boards stay damp, termites can enter through the smallest cracks and cause significant damage before being noticed.

Plumbing and electrical chases

Pipes and conduits often pass through concrete or block walls, and the seal around them weakens with time. These narrow channels provide hidden shelter for termites moving upward from the soil. 

Check for moisture around sink bases, water heaters, and laundry areas. Fix leaks promptly and maintain a dry environment because moisture is one of the strongest termite attractants.

Exterior lighting and landscape zones

Outdoor lighting can draw swarmers during termite season. Inspect light fixtures mounted on walls and posts, especially those near shrubs or mulch. Trim vegetation to create airflow and reduce humidity near the foundation. Keep mulch thin and at least a few inches from the building; thick, damp mulch layers give termites both food sources and cover.

Stored wood and outbuildings

Termite infestations often start outside. Firewood, lumber, and cardboard boxes stacked on the ground can harbor colonies that later migrate toward the house. Store all wood items on racks at least 12 inches above the soil and away from walls. For sheds or fences, check for rotting boards or wood in direct soil contact and replace or treat them to create a physical barrier.

Each of these systems can tell a story about your home's risk level. Photograph any suspicious spots, record moisture-prone areas, and leave sealed or fragile sections untouched until inspection. A termite control professional can determine which areas require treatment, repair, or ongoing monitoring to protect the structure long-term.

Species Playbook: Match the Strategy to the Enemy

Different termites call for different plans. We start by confirming the species, mapping access points, and then pairing your structure with the right solution from our toolkit: liquid barrier (Liquid Defense Treatment with Termidor), Sentricon baiting, fumigation/tenting, and spot/localized treatments.

Subterranean & Formosan/Asian Subterranean

How they operate

These species nest in soil and move through hidden tunnels to reach wood. Formosan and Asian subterranean termites form very large colonies and can spread quickly.

What we use

• Liquid barrier (Liquid Defense Treatment with Termidor): We establish a continuous treated-soil zone at the foundation so that foraging termites don't reach the structure.

  
  

• Sentricon baiting: We install stations that intercept termites and share a targeted bait within the colony.

  
  

Why it works

Soil is their travel route. A perimeter liquid barrier stops entry, while Sentricon targets the colony population. On complex lots or properties with patios and additions, combining both gives strong coverage with minimal disruption.

Owner checklist

Fix moisture issues, keep soil graded away from walls, and don't scrape off mud tubes before we inspect. Those details help us place stations and apply the product with precision.

Drywood Termites

How they operate

Drywood termites live inside the wood they feed on. No soil contact is required, so you won't see ground tubes. Activity often shows up in fascia, soffits, trim, or attic framing.

What we use

• Spot/localized treatments: We inject directly into identified galleries when activity is confined.

  
  

• Fumigation/tenting: For widespread or inaccessible activity, whole-structure treatment reaches hidden galleries throughout the envelope.

  
  

Why it works

Localized work is ideal for defined areas with clear access. When activity is scattered in multiple locations, fumigation treats the entire structure in one pass. We'll walk you through prep and re-entry timing required by label and state rules.

How we decide

We confirm the species, document where they're entering, and then recommend the least disruptive plan that protects the structure and addresses the source.

Many homes do well with a single method; some benefit from a combined approach, such as a Termidor liquid barrier for soil travelers plus Sentricon monitoring, or localized drywood work with a follow-up inspection schedule. Our focus is clear results and long-term confidence, not a one-time spray.

Treatment Tech

We use a monitored bait system that targets the colony. Foraging workers feed on a growth regulator in the station and share it within the group. It disrupts the termites' ability to develop and replace workers, so the colony declines over time. Stations are installed at set intervals around the structure and checked on a routine schedule.

We track activity, add bait when needed, and adjust placement based on what we see.

Why this works in Boca Raton soils

• Sandy, shifting soil and lots of hardscape mean hidden access points. Stations intercept foragers without drilling through every slab or paver.

  
  

• High water tables make non-repellent liquids harder to apply in some zones; baiting adds coverage where trenching is limited.

  
  

• Ongoing monitoring gives us early signals before termite damage becomes costly.

  
  

When we recommend soil termiticides

A non-repellent liquid termiticide (our Liquid Defense Treatment with Termidor) creates a treated-soil zone around the foundation. Termites cannot detect it, contact the zone during normal foraging, and the exposure spreads within the colony.

Best use cases:

• Active subterranean pressure with clear soil access around the foundation.

  
  

• Immediate perimeter protection for additions, slab penetrations, and utility entries.

  
  

Prep and access:

• We need a clear strip along the exterior walls, access to garages and slab edges, and permission to drill through concrete where required.

  
  

• Landscaping near the foundation may be pulled back temporarily.

  
  

• Normal re-entry is immediate for the treated areas outside.

  
  

Where borate wood treatments fit

Borate products penetrate raw wood and protect it from feeding. They're ideal on exposed framing, attic members, and new or remodeled areas before finishes go on.

Best use cases

• Preventive protection during construction or renovations.

  
  

• Localized drywood pressure on accessible, unfinished wood.

  
  

Prep and access

• Wood surfaces must be bare and clean. Paint or sealer blocks penetration.

  
  

• We may return for a follow-up inspection to confirm coverage in other areas.

  
  

When tenting is the right call

Whole-structure fumigation is reserved for widespread drywood activity or galleries we can't reach without demolition. The treatment reaches hidden spaces throughout the building envelope.

Home life impact

You'll vacate for a short, defined period and follow label and state guidelines for bagging or removing food and medications.

After aeration and clearance, you re-enter normally.

There's no residual, so we pair tenting with inspection and prevention to keep new colonies from establishing.

Choosing the mix

Many homes do well with one primary method. Some benefit from a combined plan: a Termidor liquid barrier for soil travelers plus bait stations for monitoring, or localized drywood injections followed by a preventive borate application in accessible framing. We recommend the least disruptive path that protects the structure now and reduces future pressure.

Safety, Pets, Plants, and Prep

Every termite treatment is built around safety—yours, your family's, and your surroundings. How you prepare depends on the method. Here's what to expect and how to make the process smooth, whether your home needs a tent or not.

For non-tenting treatments

Liquid barriers, bait systems, or localized wood injections require very little disruption. You stay home during service, and normal activities can resume right after.

Before the visit:

• Clear a path around the foundation so our team can trench, rod, or place bait stations. Move potted plants, lawn décor, and hoses.

  
  

• Pick up pet toys, bowls, and bedding near exterior walls.

  
  

• Unlock gates and garage doors for full perimeter access.

  
  

During and after:

• Keep pets indoors until we finish applying liquid treatments or installing stations.

  
  

• Allow surfaces to dry before watering plants or washing down patios.

  
  

• We'll confirm when it's safe to let pets or children back into treated areas—typically the same day.

  
  

For tenting (Whole-structure fumigation)

Fumigation reaches every part of the structure, so preparation is more involved. You'll vacate for a set period and re-enter only after official clearance.

Before tenting:

• Bag or remove all food, pet food, spices, and medications that aren't factory-sealed.

  
  

• Remove houseplants and cover or store outdoor potted ones away from the structure.

  
  

• Open interior doors, closets, and cabinets so air circulates evenly.

  
  

• Turn off gas service if required and coordinate any alarm or security systems.

  
  

• Arrange temporary housing for pets—no animals, aquariums, or terrariums can remain inside.

  
  

After tenting:

• We'll ventilate and test the air before you return. Once cleared, unbag your items, wipe food-prep surfaces, and reset appliances or alarms.

  
  

Pets, gardens, and aquariums

For outdoor pets, shift food and water bowls away from the treatment zone and wait until we confirm the area is dry. Aquarium pumps should stay off during fumigation and only restart once it's safe.

Landscaping can stay in place for most non-tent treatments, but trim shrubs and move hanging plants so we can treat soil and foundation edges without contact.

Taking these steps ahead of time keeps treatments efficient and stress-free. We'll provide clear instructions for your specific service and check every detail before starting, so your home, pets, and plants stay protected throughout the process.

The 30/60/90-Day Action Plan After You Find Signs

Here's the same timeline, tightened to match exactly what we offer—inspection first, then a targeted plan using Liquid Defense Treatment (Termidor), Sentricon, spot/localized treatments, or fumigation/tenting, followed by verification.

Day 0–7: Document, stabilize, protect evidence

What you do now sets up an accurate inspection.

• Photograph what you see (mud tubes, discarded wings, frass, blistered paint) and note each location.

  
  

• Don't disturb anything. Leave tubes, exit holes, and suspect trim intact so we can identify species and travel paths.

  
  

• Dry things out. Fix irrigation overspray, leaks, or standing water; keep soil graded away from the foundation and clear gutters so fascia stays dry.

  
  

• Open access. Move stored items a few feet from walls, water heaters, and electrical/plumbing penetrations so our inspection tools can reach every side.

  
  

• Book your inspection. We confirm the species and map entry points before any treatment is selected.

  
  

Day 8–30: Execute the targeted plan

We match the method to the problem and your structure.

• Liquid Defense Treatment (Termidor): We create a continuous treated-soil zone at the foundation to stop subterranean termites where they travel. Expect quick perimeter protection once the application is complete.

  
  

• Sentricon: We install and service stations around the property to intercept foragers and reduce colony pressure over time, with ongoing monitoring built in.

  
  

• Spot/Localized treatments: For defined drywood galleries (trim, fascia, frames), we treat the exact area without opening large sections.

  
  

• Fumigation/Tenting: If drywood activity is widespread or inaccessible, we recommend whole-structure treatment. We provide a clear prep checklist and timing for temporary vacancy and re-entry according to label and state rules.

  
  

How you help during this phase

• Keep the perimeter clear so we can return for checks or follow-up applications.

  
  

• Hold off on DIY sprays; they can interfere with professional materials already in place.

  
  

• Maintain normal drainage and avoid overwatering near treated soil.

  
  

Day 31–90: Verify, monitor, maintain

We make sure results hold and pressure stays low.

• Follow-up checks: We reinspect high-risk zones and—when Sentricon is in use—service stations and record any activity changes.

  
  

• Visual verification: Watch for new frass piles, new mud tubes, or new discarded wings in the areas we flagged. If you spot anything, send photos so we can respond quickly.

  
  

• Tighten conditions: Keep wood off soil, trim dense shrubs away from the foundation, and maintain clean gutters and proper slope so moisture doesn't return.

  
  

After 90 days, your home should be stable with protection in place and a monitoring rhythm set. From there, we keep an eye on the property at scheduled intervals and adjust as needed, so control isn't a one-time event; it's a reliable system.

What Working With Terminate Termite Looks Like

At Terminate Termite & Pest Control, we specialize in termite protection and pest control. From the first inspection to long-term monitoring, every step is handled by local technicians who understand South Florida's soil, weather, and construction styles.

Our team documents what we find with photos and notes, confirms the termite species, and designs a treatment plan that fits your property. Whether that means a barrier application, Sentricon system, localized treatment, or tenting, you'll know exactly what's being done and why.

We stand behind our work with dependable warranty coverage and scheduled follow-ups that keep your home protected year-round. If you've seen signs of activity or want preventive coverage, contact us today to schedule your inspection and put a lasting barrier between your home and termites.

Conclusion

Termite control isn't about a single treatment but about keeping pressure low year-round. With the right inspection, targeted solutions, and ongoing monitoring, your home stays protected from hidden damage. At Terminate Termite & Pest Control, we make that process simple, effective, and built for Boca Raton homes.

Frequently Asked Questions

How to control termites in the house when I think I have a termite infestation?

Start with a professional termite inspection—don't spray or scrape mud tubes. We document evidence, confirm the termite species, and recommend a targeted plan (barrier, baiting, localized work, or tenting) so that control removes the source and prevents new activity.

What is the best termite treatment for subterranean termites?

Subterranean termites travel through soil, so a continuous liquid barrier at the foundation is often the fastest protection. We may add a baiting system for colony pressure and ongoing monitoring. The mix depends on your structure, moisture, and access points.

Do I need a termite inspection to confirm termite species and termite damage?

Yes. Species drives strategy, and damage mapping tells us where termites entered and what's at risk. We provide photos and notes, then tailor termite treatments to your home.

Are mud tubes always proof of termites, and what termite control steps should I take?

Mud tubes strongly indicate subterranean termites. Don't break them; photograph locations and call us. We'll verify activity, treat the travel routes, and address conditions (like moisture and wood-to-soil contact) so control holds after the initial termite treatment.