Essential Guide: How to Control Termites Effectively and Safely

Termites don’t rush; they hide. Most homeowners only notice them after the colony has been feeding for a while, which is why learning how to control termites early is so important. 

South Florida’s warm, humid weather keeps termite pressure high all year, and that means both subterranean and drywood termites can be active at the same time.

Add in more aggressive species showing up in coastal areas, and you’ve got a real termite control issue, not just a seasonal nuisance. On top of that, termite damage is rarely covered by standard homeowners insurance, so catching activity before it spreads can save serious money.

Key Takeaways

• Termite control starts with identification—subterranean, drywood, and Formosan termites are treated differently.

• Safe control uses targeted methods (baiting, soil barriers, selective injections) instead of blanket spraying.

  
  

• Prevention should be ongoing: fix moisture issues, keep wood off the house, and schedule regular inspections.

  
  

First Step: Know Which Termite You’re Dealing With

Before you jump to “spray it,” you need to know what’s in the house. 

Different termite species build different colonies, feed in different areas, and respond to different termite treatment methods. Getting the ID right up front is what keeps small termite infestations from turning into repeat visits.

Subterranean termites

• What you see: mud tubes on foundation walls, exterior walls, or in crawl spaces; activity close to soil or moisture.

  
  

• Why they’re tricky: these social insects live in the ground and come up to feed, so you have to treat termites where they travel, not just where you spotted them.

  
  

• Typical control: soil treatment or bait stations/bait systems to cut off the colony’s access to food sources. In some cases, treated soil barriers or stainless steel mesh near the home’s foundation help prevent future entry.

  
  

• What attracts them: moisture buildup, water leaks, mulch against the house, wood debris, or firewood stored right by the structure.

  
  

Drywood termites

• What you see: tiny kick-out holes and small piles of pellets (frass) around window sills, door frames, or baseboards; sometimes in the attic or exposed wood.

  
  

• Why they’re tricky: drywood termites don’t need soil—they live right inside the wood, which is why spot treatments, wood treatments, or whole-structure fumigation/tenting are used.

  
  

• Where they show up: trim, furniture, rooflines, fascia, wood siding, even older, untreated, or pressure-treated wood if it’s weathered.

  
  

• Good to note: you may not see mud tubes with drywood termites, so don’t rule out a termite infestation just because you don’t see tubes.

  
  

Formosan termites

• What you see: big swarms, lots of discarded wings (look for the hind wings), and damage that seems to advance faster than normal.

  
  

• Why they’re different: larger termite colonies, more aggressive feeding, and the ability to cause significant damage in a shorter window.

  
  

• What to do: do not DIY this. These infestations need professional pest control companies using a combination of soil/structural work and follow-up inspections.

  
  

What to collect before you call for a termite inspection

• Photos of what you found: mud tubes, pellets, wings, and holes.

  
  

• Where you saw it: exterior walls, crawl space, near gutters, around door frames, or inside the house.

  
  

• When it showed up: after rain, after a swarm, near mulch or rotting wood.

  
  

• House details: age of the house, any past termite treatment, and if you recently stored firewood or tree stumps near the structure.

  
  

The more you can tell a pro about current termite activity, the faster they can determine the species and match the right termite control plan, whether that’s bait, soil treatment, localized injections, or a full-structure approach to get rid of termites and protect the property long term.

Safe, Pro-Level Termite Control Options

Once termite activity is confirmed, the next step is to stop the colony and prevent future ones from forming. The treatment, however, depends on the species, where they’re feeding, and how the structure is built. Here’s how professional pest control teams approach the problem safely and effectively:

1) Targeted liquid or foam treatments

These are used where termite mud tubes or visible damage are found. The product is injected into the infested wood or voids in walls, delivering precision control without flooding the area with unnecessary insecticides. It’s especially effective for localized drywood termite infestations or spots where termite swarmers have recently been seen.

2) Soil and structural barriers

For subterranean termites that travel through soil or concrete cracks, professionals create treated zones beneath and around the home. These soil treatments block entry points and cut off the route between the nest and the food source.

Sealing cracks and managing moisture near the foundation helps prevent moisture buildup, which is one of the main things that attracts termites in the first place.

3) Bait systems

Installed in the soil around the property, bait stations work slowly but thoroughly. Termites feed on bait and share it throughout the colony, spreading control through their social network. It's low-toxicity, long-term, and works well for property owners who want ongoing protection without frequent chemical applications.

4) Fumigation or tenting

When colonies are widespread or hidden in hard-to-reach areas, fumigation becomes the only reliable solution. The structure is sealed and treated to reach termites hiding deep inside. The process requires homeowners to vacate temporarily but ensures full eradication of an active infestation and helps stop the formation of a new colony.

Professional termite control focuses on accuracy and safety. Whether it’s sealing cracks, removing dead trees or decaying wood, or installing preventive systems, the aim is lasting protection for your home’s structure and foundation.

Termites are relentless pests, but with the right prevention steps and monitored treatments, even the toughest termite problem can be handled for good.

What’s Considered “Safe” Termite Control?

Safe termite control is using the right method in the right place, in the right amount. Licensed pest control professionals are trained to detect termite activity accurately and apply targeted solutions that eliminate colonies without unnecessary exposure.

DIY options like sprays, orange oil, or home remedies may seem convenient, but they’re only surface-level fixes. They can kill termites you see, but won’t reach the ones deep inside walls or the soil. They don’t stop the colony that’s feeding out of sight.

For families with kids, pets, or home offices, professional termite control can still be done safely. Baiting systems are a good low-toxicity option since they work slowly, spreading through the colony rather than blanketing the house with chemicals. Selective injections and timed services can also limit exposure while still preventing termite infestations.

One of the most important steps happens after treatment, which is the follow-up inspection. Regular checks confirm that the colony is gone and that a new one hasn't moved in. Skipping inspections can undo months of progress, especially in climates where termites stay active year-round. Safe termite control is about how you keep them from coming back.

When to Call a Pro Instead of Trying to Fix It Yourself

Some termite issues you can watch for a day or two, but there are certain signs that mean it’s time to bring in a professional instead of trying another DIY fix.

• You saw swarmers inside the house, not just outside. Indoor swarmers usually mean termites are already in the structure, not just in the yard.

  
  

• You found mud tubes on interior walls, piers, or in the garage. That’s active travel, and it needs more than a surface spray.

  
  

• There’s old termite damage, and you can’t tell if it’s active. A technician can determine if it’s past or present activity.

  
  

• You’ve treated them before, but they came back. That often means the wrong species was treated, the colony wasn’t fully reached, or there’s a moisture/soil issue that keeps attracting termites.

  
  

• You want monitoring or a warranty. Termites can return, especially in warm, humid areas, so scheduled inspections and bait checks make sense.

  
  

• You’re dealing with a large or hidden structure. Multi-level homes, crawl spaces, additions, or concrete-on-grade areas sometimes need drilling, soil work, or bait systems you shouldn’t DIY.

  
  

When a pro comes out, you can expect a straightforward process: inspect, identify the termite type, explain treatment options, outline timing, and set follow-ups to confirm the colony is gone.

Protect the Structure, Not Just the Surface

Termites don’t stop on their own, and waiting almost always makes the repair bill bigger. The safest plan is the one built around your house, the species you’re dealing with, and how your family actually lives in the space.

Terminate Termite offers inspections, targeted termite control (subterranean, drywood, and more aggressive species), bait systems for ongoing protection, and follow-up visits so you’re not guessing six months from now.

If you’ve seen swarmers, mud tubes, or old damage you’re unsure about, let a local team that works in South Florida conditions look at it and map out the right treatment. Message us for your FREE quote.

Conclusion

Termites are sneaky. If you spot signs early, match the treatment to the species, and stay on top of moisture and inspections, you can keep your home safe without over-treating.

Frequently Asked Questions

What are the first signs of a termite infestation I should look for?

Common signs include mud tubes on walls or foundations, discarded wings from swarmers, hollow-sounding wood, or tiny pellet-like droppings (for drywood termites). Any of these can point to active termite infestations.

What’s the safest way to treat termites in a lived-in home?

The safest termite treatment is one that’s targeted to the species and location—soil treatments for subterranean termites, localized injections or wood treatment for drywood termites, and bait systems for long-term control. A pro can limit exposure while still eliminating the colony.

How can I prevent termite infestations around my house?

Reduce moisture, keep wood and mulch away from exterior walls, fix leaks, clear gutters, and seal cracks where termites can enter. Removing easy food sources like wood debris or stacked firewood against the house also makes your property less attractive.

Can I get rid of termites on my own if the termite problem is small?

You can spot-treat exposed wood or isolated pieces of furniture, but full colonies inside walls or soil usually need professional help. DIY fixes often kill what you see, not the colony that’s feeding, so the problem comes back.